DAY 2

Day 2 began with yet another early call, (4.30) and a five hour journey to the North of Iceland for some sea diving. By now the Landrover had been delivered and the van had gone. The first problem became obvious, six men and spare kit would not fit in the Landrover for 392 km. Very soon this initial problem was added to by the fact that the tow hitch was not correct for the trailer. By eight we were back with the van and, three hours late, heading north.

The photos do not do the journey justice. The scenery was and is magnificent and to a man we agreed that it made the visit worthwhile. We journeyed through valleys and over mountain passes surrounded by the jagged, snowy peaks of the western coastal route.

On arrival at the small fishing village 18km west of the main town, Akuryri we found the boat waiting for us. The two man crew were normally used to mussel fishing and at first were slightly ambivalent towards us but quickly became an integral part of a successful two days. Having never had divers on board before they were not particularly set up for us (other than borrowing a ladder), very quickly they began to help and pick up on our needs and when something, such as a bucket in which to goggles was suggested, it appeared. After a very short while they were became friendly and shared the experience, Gunnar even started to express an interest in taking up diving.

All the dives for the two days took place in the fjord and, as the weather was predicted to turn bad, the diving with guillemot’s had to be abandoned (we did get our guillemot by having it for our evening meal).

Dive 1 was the start of a good couple of days diving, this was the Strytan geothermal vent. Normally these are found hundreds of meters down but here the pinnacles are about 15 meters below the surface and drop to 70 meters. In total there are three pinnacles, with the two smaller ones terminating at about 50 meters. In between the vents is the shot line with a convenient bungee wrapped around the main vent at 25 meters. The dive is spectacular with the main vent looming into view as a series of shimmering knife shaped points (where the hot water emerges from the vents). Spiralling down the vent we pass by large mussels in crevasses and various soft corals. Just within sight fish lazily swim round keeping their distance but not worried. At intervals the water shimmers above what looks like a daub of white paint, as more hot water seeps out giving cold hands an opportunity to be warmed.

A section of the Strytan geothermal vent 

 

Lobate ctenophores seen around the vent

 Working slowly upwards spiralling around the vent as we go the shot line appears and we ascend using it as a guide to the surface and then at the end of the dive the fun begins. As the boat comes to pick us up we realise that the ladder just reaches to the surface of the water. The only way to manage the exit is to hoist a knee up, heave onto the ladder and pull up, basically brute force and an ungainly scramble.

On board coffee appears amid the babble of excited and pleased divers. This unique dive was only a prelude to the second dive and to add to the occasion a pod of pilot whales drifted past. The time for dive 2 arrived with Richard (Wolfie) Burke and Jonathan (Sidemount) Fitton opting out. The remaining five kitted up and leapt in.

This dive was also on a thermal vent, however, instead of a tube this lay on the sea bed (22 meters) and was a series of 5 meter high spires forming an oval shaped mound covering area of about 10 by 5 meters. We were told that there was a possibility of Wolf Fish on this dive.

A remarkable prediction because as we arrived at the base of the shot line a large Wolf fish came swimming over to meet us. It showed no aggression and played with us until we moved off to explore and even then he followed us swimming from one diver to another in turn. Eric (our host) was last seen patting it on the head. As we explored the vent/reef we found ourselves counting Wolfies and after reaching double figures gave up and just enjoyed the experience.

We also encountered several large sea cucumbers in full display a ray basking in the heat, a large red lump sucker and a pink mottled scorpion fish. The vent was covered in large mussels, clams and kelp of varying colours. When the time came to surface it was with great reluctance that we left our pet Wolfie.

Back on board we were buzzing what a dive, what great biz and what great scenery.

The deck after the second dive

 A pretty good day and to finish a good meal, a trip out to catch the Northern Lights and a warm comfortable bed to finish. For diving close to as good as it gets.

Friendly Wolf fish

The only picture of all eight of us.